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A NOTE ON OUR HAT MAKING METHODS
With the exception of the noted ocassional use of machine sewing, most of our hatmaking techniques pre-date the English industrial revolution. The trade has separated into the two fields of feltmaking and hatmaking, but the methods used here pre-date the factory hatmaking system and early machine-made hats. W e do not make our own felt, but all other aspects of the work use methods which date from the time during which the feltmaker was also the hat blocker and hat finisher.
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NOTE ABOUT BLOCKING |
All felt hats are stretched over wooden shapes called hat blocks which give the hats their individual shapes. Prior to 1817 all hat blocks were lathe turned and, therefore, round. When a wig is worn, the resultant shape of the head is more or less round. If a round blocked hat needs to fit an oval head, the head opening of the hat is stretched to form the required oval shape. This also gives the characteristic curve to the brim of round blocked top hats. After 1817, oval hat blocks more closely approximating the natural shape of the head were introduced and an overlap occurred during which round and oval blocking were used. Certain hat styles can be found late in the 19th century which existed in the early 19th century. Certain hats were made on round blocks as late as the 1850's and many hats (Beaver top hats especially) were often passed down several generations. |
Bicorne/Tricorne 1770 - 1800 |
1812 British Army Officer's Bicorne 1800 - 1820's |
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(2 distinct side corners with 1 front "spout")
Hand blocked, hand sewn, round blocked.
Furfelt with cotton drawstring seatband.
4" deep crown, 4 1/2" wide back brim, 4" wide front brim.
Matching brim edge binding.
Civilian in black or brown (other colours upon request)
Military in black with white brim edge binding, button, loop & cockade.
Ht004.................$365.00
HT004a - Wool felt - $315.00 |
Hand blocked, hatter's foundation felt covered with woollen cloth, ribbon bound edging, cotton sweatband, leather plume sleeve, stay lacing.
Button, loop & cockade. Folding/non folding. In black only. Plume and any required badges supplied by customer. American pattern available upon request.
HT011.................$365.00 |
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British Stovepipe Shako
1800 - 1812 |
British Waterloo Pattern "Belgic" Shako
1812 - 1820 |
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Hand blocked, hand sewn, round blocked.
Fur felt crown with leather visor, sweatband and plume sleeve. Linen size liner. In black only.
HT012 Wool Felt.....................$295.00
HT012a Smooth Finish Felt.....................$395.00
HT012b Officer's Beaver Finish Felt........$495.00
Add $35.00 for leather rain flap.
Customer must supply any required plume, shakoplate, cords & buttons. American upon request. |
Hand blocked, hand sewn, round blocked.
Fur felt crown and "false" front.
Leather visor, sweatband and plume sleeve.
Linen size liner, cording hooks, ribbon edging and cockade. In black only.
HT013 Wool Felt..............$345.00
HT013a Smooth Finish Fur Felt..............$425.00
HT013b Officer's Beaver Finish Felt.......$615.00
Add $35.00 for leather rain flap.
Customer must supply any required plume, shakoplate, cords & buttons. |
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Leather "Belgic Copy" Shako
American 1813 Issue |
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Hand Blocked, hand sewn, round blocked.
Leather crown, visor, sweatband and plume sleeve.
Linen size liner. In black only.
HT014...........$475.00
Customer must supply any required plume, plate,
cords & buttons |
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