| Sac Suit |
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The sack suit came into use as common daywear during the mid 1880's and
continued with little change well into the first part of the twentieth century.
It was used for business and leisure wear, sharing the former with the once mainstays
of business wear, the frock and morning coat. The business sack suit was comprised
of the coat, waiscoat and trousers, more often cut from the same cloth, although
not always so with the waistcoat.Variations in the coat styling offered flap or
patch pockets, rounded or straight fronts, and three or four button closing and any combination thereof. Waistcoats were made up in single and double breasted variations,
some cut with lapels, others finished plain. The trousers were cut with a straight
leg and high waist, a plain finished hem and no pressed crease. A variety
of fabrics were used; plain, striped and diagonal worsteds, navy and black
being common shades. Fine finished tweeds in checks and plaids were also
used. The gentleman at his country home could be found sporting a two-piece tweed
suit comprised of coat and breeches or trousers, most often made up in heavier
tweeds in broad check or plaid patterns. For hunting, cycling, tennis, cricket
or any other sporting activity, a specific style of costume was adopted
for each, with the sack suit forming the basis of the style.
"For business, fashion indicates two general styles - the sack and cutaway frock.
Sack coats are made to button one, three or four buttons. It is optional to wear
a collar on the vest or not."
The Etiquette of Men's Dress - 1888 |
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Every day wear for men. Single-breasted, 4 button coat with double topstitched edges. Two lower flap pockets, flap or welt breast pocket and inside pockets. Worn with trouser TR906 and
waistcoats SW901 or SW901a
Available in a variety of 100% wool plaids, checks, stripes and tweeds.
Jacket lined in 100% cotton sateen.
SC902 Sack Coat...........................$ 585.00
SC902A Sack Suit..........................$1065.00 |
Square cut bottom, single-breasted, 4 button coat with double topstitched edges. Two lower and one breast patch pocket and inside pocket. Worn with trouser TR906 and waistcoats SW901 or SW901a.
Available in a variety of 100% wool plaids, checks, stripes and tweeds.
Jacket lined in 100% cotton sateen.
SC902B Sack Coat...........................$ 585.00
SC902A Sack Suit............................$1065.00 |
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Waistcoat with Lapel
1880 - 1910
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Plain Front Waistcoat
1880 - 1910
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This elegant waistcoat with lapel is a flattering garment in its own right. It can be of the same cloth as the sack coat for a conservative look or contrasting cloth for the smart dresser. Fully lined, close fitting with back strap and buckle. Two lower welt pockets and 1 breast welt pocket.
Matching or contrasting fabrics to go with the sack coat. Backs in matching 100% cotton sateen.
SW 901.................$235.00 |
Dotted silk four-in-hand tie in various colors; also classic navy with maroon stripe. The knot is already tied and stitched in place with an adjustable neck band.
This tie is styled from an original dated from the 1890's.
Acc091...........$65.00 |
This waistcoat can be made in the same fabric as the suit or used in combination with the trouser to where a jacket is not required. Fully lined, close fitting with back strap and buckle. Two lower welt pockets and 1 breast welt pocket.
Available in a variety of woolens.
Backs in matching cotton twills.
SW901a ..........................$215.00 |
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D.B. Waistcoat with Lapel
1880 - 1910
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D.B. Waistcoat
1880 - 1910
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Fully lined, close fitting with back strap and buckle. Four welt breast pockets. Available in a variety
of woolens.
Matching or contrasting fabrics to go with the sack coat. Backs in matching 100% cotton sateen.
DBW904.................................$235.00 |
Fully lined, close fitting with back strap and buckle. Two lower flap pockets. Available in a variety of woolens and cotton corduroys.
Matching or contrasting fabrics to go with the sack coat. Backs in matching 100% cotton sateen.
DBW905.................................$215.00 |
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| MORNING & PRINCE ALBERT COATS |
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The morning coat was considered indispensable in a gentleman's wardrobe by the early 1880's, worn for business, leisure and, with the appropriate choice of accessories, semi-formal occasions. With the many different styles to choose from and with a wide variety of fabrics, the morning coat had infinite possibilities.
Considering the strict dress code of earlier decades, the morning coat surely offered a liberating effect in gentleman's dress. A black morning coat with waistcoat cut from the same cloth and trousers of a lighter shade was considered appropriate for both business and casual daytime wear. Plaids and small checked tweeds were popular for casual wear.The frock coat held it's position as accepted formal wear for daytime occasions such as day weddings and afternoon receptions. It was almost always black with the waistcoat either in matching cloth or in white cotton duck or silk and dark grey striped trousers. |
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Prince Albert Coat
1880 - 1910
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Worn as day wear with matching vest and trousers. Fully lined , 4 button, 2 inside pockets in tails , welt breast pocket and narrow topstitching. Available in 100% wool in plaids, checks and solids. See vest SW901a and trouser TR906 for morning suit.
CS903 Morning Coat..................$795.00
CS903a Morning Suit..................$1275.00 |
Neck Scarf in 100% silk.
Acc091a.....$75.00 |
A more formal day attire.
Fully lined, D.B. coat with waistcoat and optional trousers.
Wide wale diagonals in black, blue and brown.
Waistcoat SW901a
PA904 Coat............$855.00
with Vest & Trousers ....$1235.00 |
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| THE DRESS COAT - EVENING WEAR |
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Evening wear consisted of the dresscoat, waistcoat, trousers, plain bibbed shirt front with wing-tipped collar and bow tie or ascot. The beaver fur-felt top hat and either white or grey kid gloves completed the ensemble. The dresscoat, with its front cut well to the side, and thus giving the back the appearance of a ''swallowtail', was reserved for evening formal wear.
A 'Correct Dress Chart' for the Autumn, Winter of 1909 - 1910 provides a detailed description of evening dress consisting of:, "Swallowtail (black), white single-breasted waistcoat of linen drill, pique or silk, trousers with broad braid on outer seams, high silk with broad silk band top hat, plain or pique shirt front, poke lap-front or round tabbed wing collar, white lawn tie, white gloves, patent leather or varnished calfskin shoes and pearl, agate or moonstone links and studs."
"Never wear a dress suit by daylight, even to your own wedding.
The swallow flies only by night."
Julius Saul, Little Things in Dress - 1888 |
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| SPORTS & LEISURE WEAR |
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The Norfolk, a belted, pleated and sometimes yoked jacket used primarily
as a hunting jacket in earlier decades had evolved into a more utilitarian
garment for a variety of sports and leisure activities by the 1880's.
This, along with the sack coat, and knee breeches, became the chosen
costume for a variety of activities from shooting, cycling, and touring
to general country wear. Tweeds were the fabric of choice, with all manner
of design; houndstooth, herringbone, plaids and small checks being some
of the more common.
"It seems universally accepted that the proper dress for bicycling is knee breeches, short jacket, cap or helmet, ribbed stocking and low shoes."
Etiquette of Men's Dress - 1888 |
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Norfolk Jacket
1880 - 1920
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Knickerbockers
1880 - 1920
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Click to view photo |
Click to view photo |
Sporting suit of the 1880's and 90's.
Consists of belted jacket with patch pockets with matching trousers or knickerbockers.
Jacket and knickerbockers fully lined in a matching cotton twill.
Available in Harris tweeds and homespuns.
NF905 Norfolk Jacket..................$715.00
with knickerbockers..................$970.00
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Button fly, side pockets, and adjustable back strap. Worn with suspenders. (not included) Fabric to match coat.
TR909....................$255.00
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